Maya Travel Uncategorized Why Is My Reverse Osmosis Tank Not Filling Up?

Why Is My Reverse Osmosis Tank Not Filling Up?

It can be frustrating when your RO system is on the fritz, like when the reverse osmosis tank isn’t filling up. Not only does that prevent your water from being filtered, it can potentially damage the system, becoming a costly problem. Even if the tank is working fine right now, it’s important to understand how to correct issues before they happen. 

If your RO tank isn’t filling, let’s take a look at potential reasons why and how to correct them. 

7 Reasons Why Your Reverse Osmosis Tank Isn’t Filling Up & How to Fix Them

Possible Issue RO Part Affected Action to Confirm

#1 Low Household Water Pressure

None Check household water pressure (see below)

#2 Low RO Tank Pressure

RO Tank Air Valve Measure tank pressure with a tire gauge to the air valve under a blue cap. It must be 5-7 psi.

#3 Broken Tank Bladder

RO Tank Air Bladder If water leaks out of the air valve, the tank bladder may be compromised.

#4 Clogged RO Membrane in Need of Replacing

RO Membrane Check its next Replacement Date. If possible, compare its feed pressure against its norm.

#5 Clogged RO Filters in Need of Replacing

RO Carbon Filters Check its next Replacement Date. If possible, compare its feed pressure against its norm.

#6 Improper Water Feed Connection

Water Feed Lines and Connectors Check for kinks and hook-up connections.

#7 Improper Water Drain Connection

Water Drain Tubes and Connectors Check for kinks and hook-up connections.

Low House Water Pressure

One of the most common reasons for a tank not filling is the house’s water pressure itself. Ideally, for an RO system to work, the water pressure must be 60 psi, but a range of 40 to 80 is acceptable too. When the pressure is too low, the water can’t push through the RO membranes, preventing the tank from filling. If the pressure is low at all the faucets in the house, it is likely a temporary issue with the local water company, in which case you should give them a call.

Low RO Tank Pressure

If all the faucets in the house are working normally then the pressure in the tank may be the issue. The tank should have a pressure of 7 to 8 psi without any water in it; to confirm or see what the pressure is, locate the valve (typically covered by a blue plastic cap) on the side of the tank near the bottom. After removing all the water from the tank, use a pressure gauge to see what it is. If low, add air with a pump until reaching 7 or 8 psi, and be sure to only add a small amount of air at a time or risk rupturing the air bladder.

Broken Tank Bladder

If you only get one cup of water from the RO faucet (at normal water pressure) and then it quickly turns to a trickle or small stream, it’s usually a sign the air bladder in the storage tank has ruptured. Unfortunately, the only solution to this is to replace the storage tank itself.

Clogged RO Membrane

Like other water filtering systems, the components that do the filtering need regular changes. This is a common reason for the tank not filling up, the membranes being clogged, preventing water from passing through them and stopping the tank from filling. These membranes are fragile and can easily become clogged if not switched out regularly, generally every 24 months depending on usage and water quality. To solve this, have a technician come to replace the membranes with new ones.

Clogged Reverse Osmosis System Filters

A reverse osmosis system filters water in two ways, through membranes and cartridges (filters). If the membranes are new or recently replaced, a clogged filter may be the reason the tank isn’t filling. The carbon blocks (filters) should be changed every six months to once a year depending on water quality and usage. If the water tastes like chlorine or different than usual, this may be the reason for the tank not filling and only requiring a new cartridge.

Improper Water Feed Connection

Another reason for the tank not filling is with the water feed connection itself, which can happen in two ways: there is a kink in the water line or it was improperly installed. Look at pictures of the installation that show the proper feed connection to ensure it is hooked up correctly and double-check that the water supply line valve is in the fully open position.

Improper Water Drain Connection

The drain saddle, where the wastewater carries contaminants away, can sometimes cause the reverse osmosis tank to not fill. To see if this is the cause, first check if it is installed correctly by checking the installation pictures. Another related error may be the ASO valve not shutting off, which can be tested by turning the tank valve off to see if the ASO stops flowing to the drain, which can take a few minutes to see.

If the ASO is found to be the culprit, there are a few reasons for this:

  • The flow restrictor is missing or failed, signaled by a large amount of water flowing to the drain and a lot of noise.
  • The tank isn’t filling.
  • The ASO valve is stuck in a closed position. If this is the case, then completely disconnect the valve to make sure all pressure is off the assembly and replace it.
  • The check valve may be bleeding pressure, which can be tested with a full tank of water while the tank valve is open. First, turn off the water supply and if it is still flowing to the drain, then the check valve is leaking pressure and needs to be replaced. It’s an uncommon error, but is Worth checking. 

Ensuring Your Reverse Osmosis Unit Functions Correctly

As with any machine, errors can occur, and it’s important to know what to look for and to regularly check the RO system. Some of these issues do require Professional assistance, especially if troubleshooting hasn’t helped or solved the issue outright. 

We at H20 Solutions are dedicated to empowering individuals who want water their way, delivering safeguards to improve the home’s water supply and properly maintaining the filtering system with the right tools. If you have RO system problems, we invite you to connect with our experts and explore our selection of tools to help get your water back to the quality you deserve. Click below for more information.
    

H2O Solutions | Reverse Osmosis

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The concise simple answer to your query is a resounding yes!

Why would they not be?

Well,let’s take a look at some of the practical troubles with a log cabin which would make the timber cabin not watertight and fairly frankly not fit for purpose.The main thing to look at as soon as possible is the roof,that’s where you would visualize the main problem would start (this is not always the situation but that’s where we will start today). The main problem with the roof would be to have the felt or shingling to not be set up appropriately. This is fairly easily done if this is something you have never done before and why it should always be carried out by a professional particularly if you are putting in a lot of your hard earned money on a log cabin.

• Make sure that the overlies are overliing in the right way. You should always start felting at the bottom of the building and felt upwards. By doing this you ensure that the felt overlies on top of the piece of felt that is further down the roof. This will ensure there is a natural run off of the water,if you start felting at the top of the roof and you put the overlap from the bottom pieces over the top of the felt higher up when the rain operates off it will operate under the felt and consequently bring about a water leak. This is exactly the same when doing shingles,make sure you place from bottom upwards.

• Make sure the overlies of the felt/shingles are fairly generous. You don’t want them to be just barely overliing because this could bring about rainwater to get between the felt sheets and this will bring about a water leak

.• Make sure you use enough felt nails. Ideally you want to be spacing the felt nails around 6 inches apart from each other. Always do this on both sides of the felt and dependent on the quality of the felt you are using possibly put another row of nails in the middle,possibly two rows but again this depends on the quality of the felt. Failure to put enough felt nails in there could result in the felt blowing off during a bad storm which would then leave your building exposed to water leaks.

• It is in addition essential that when you reach the overhang of the building with the felt you nail the felt to side of the roof but DO NOT tuck the felt under the overhang of the roof as this limits the natural run off of the water. This can bring about premature rotting of the building and in some cases bring about the roof to leak around the top corners of the building as water could build up.

• Make sure you use the correct size fixings. If the roof boards on your building are let’s say 10mm,you don’t want felt nails of 16mm. Doing this would bring about the felt nails to come completely through the roof. This would not look cosmetically appealing and would in addition be a real opportunity of a water leak in the building. They way felt is now designed,there should be a watertight seal around the nail but throughout the seasons with wear and tear this may fail resulting in a water leak.

• The most typically overlooked area on a log cabin building is the felt or shingles on the roof. This is normally because we can’t see it most of the time and it’s a lot more difficult to get up there and have a look,but this is exactly what you should do and I would strongly recommend at least once a year or if you notice a water leak. Because timber cabins are not built as high as the normal house and the felt and shingles aren’t fairly as tough and durable as a typical house tile they require a little more focus. They are exposed to more elements on a daily basis because they are lower,this can result in a number of things from falling debris from plants,or another example would be a kids’s toys getting thrown up there which would all bring about harm to the felt/shingles. Not to mention lots of bird droppings can rot the felt if it is in an area where natural rainwater can not penetrate it to create a natural run off and cleaning system (for example if your timber cabin sits under a tree).

-place all of our timber cabins,we do this because we know you are investing a lot of money into a log cabin and you want it to be around for a long period of time. So the best way we can ensure this occurs is to take care of the installation and make sure it is set up appropriately. We’ve been out to repair timber cabins in the past built by non-skilled people and if the building is not put together appropriately then number one it won’t be safe but in addition it could bring about a failure in the building to be watertight.

A prime example of this would be that the timbers haven’t been built appropriately on the walls. This would then bring about the timber cabin to differ from the design as it was intended to be. At this point when the roof was set up there might be spaces between the roof and the wall. Spaces could in addition appear on the walls of the timber cabins themselves and in some situations if the initial build of the timber cabin was so bad you would have no choice but to take down the timber cabin and rebuild it.

This is why- place all of our timber cabins so you don’t have this to worry about. As you can visualize if there is a gap in the wall or a gap between the roof and the wall this would leave the log cabin open and it would most definitely leak which is what we want to avoid at all costs.

I in addition want to bring focus to the floor surface a second. Having your timber cabin set up on a proper ground base is a must. That could be a Timberdise ground base,cement base or a paved area. As long as they’re flat,level and solid you should be ok. Be mindful of where you put the log cabin,don’t put it at any place that is at risk of flooding as just like the house that you live in. If the water level rises and there is no getaway for it then the timber cabin will flood,that is regardless of how thick and tight your timbers are.

Lastly let’s talk about sealants around the windows and doors. Make sure after you have treated your log cabin you fit the relevant sealants around the doors and the windows. The cabins don’t come with these fitted as standard,this is so you can treat the log cabin first and then apply the sealants afterwards. By not fitting the doors and windows with sealants then there’s a chance rainwater could penetrate the inside of the log cabin,which again is easily fixed by applying sealants.

In addition,in some cases particularly during the winter months,condensation can materialize inside a log cabin. This is normal due to the cabins not having any insulation fitted,it is not a water leak and can be fairly normal. We encourage at Timberdise to get a dehumidifier if you have electric access in there and leave it operating during the colder months. This will help take moisture out of the air and further increase the life of your log cabin.

If you comply with all the above guidelines you should have a water leak free log cabin for the duration of its life which can offer endless pleasure and relaxation.Remember prevention is far better than the cure.

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